
二十分钟悬在翡翠海面
二十分钟看海上日落
这趟旅程就“四十分钟”
Twenty minutes suspended above an emerald sea,
twenty minutes watching the sun go down —
and that is the whole journey: “forty minutes”.

去富国岛之前
我以为它只是“越南最大的岛”
后来才明白这座岛
最出彩的是
每天傍晚那二十分钟日落
Before I set foot on Phu Quoc
I thought it was simply “the largest island in Vietnam”.
Only afterwards did I understand
that what this island does best
is those twenty minutes of sunset every evening.

这几天都是好天气
天蓝得没有一丝杂质
白云像被人随手搁在天边
有些地方,真的要用脚步去读
The weather has been kind these days.
The sky is blue without a speck of impurity;
white clouds lie where someone happened to leave them at the horizon.
Some places really do have to be read on foot.



上岛后第一件事
是去坐跨海缆车
The first thing I did on the island
was ride the cable car across the sea
它连接南部的日落小镇与香岛
全长近八公里
是目前全球最长的跨海缆车
全程大约二十分钟
It links Sunset Town in the south with Hon Thom.
Nearly eight kilometres long,
it is currently the longest cross-sea cable car in the world.
The crossing takes about twenty minutes.
跨海缆车 · 速览
连接南部的日落小镇与香岛
全长近八公里|全程约二十分钟
往返套票两百多元人民币,含香岛乐园的门票Cable car at a glance: links Sunset Town in the south with Hon Thom · nearly 8 km · about 20 minutes each way · a return ticket costs a little over 200 RMB and includes admission to the Hon Thom park.



人就这么被悬在海上
从这一头的地面
飘向那一头的香岛
And so you hang there, over the sea,
drifting from the ground on this side
to Hon Thom on the other.
脚下是翡翠色的海水
绿得不真实
浅滩处泛着透明的光
深水区又沉成一块浓稠的蓝绿
Below your feet the water is emerald,
so green it does not look real.
Over the shallows it gives off a transparent light;
in the deep it settles into a thick, viscous blue-green.
海面上散着数艘游船
岸边就是小渔村
屋子和船挨在一起
从这个高度看下去
像有人耐心拼好的一副积木
A few tour boats are scattered over the water;
at the shore lies a small fishing village,
houses and boats pressed close together.
From this height
it looks like a set of building blocks someone patiently pieced together.
风从缆车的缝隙里钻进来
视野开阔到让人不想说话
往返套票两百多元人民币
含香岛乐园的门票
算下来并不贵
Wind slips in through the gaps in the cabin;
the view is so open that no one wants to speak.
A return ticket costs a little over two hundred RMB
and includes admission to the island park.
All in all, not expensive.
岛上的乐园值得花上半天
The park on the island is worth half a day
项目不少
最刺激的是过山车——
俯冲下去那一瞬
真的颠覆你的感受
There is plenty to do.
The most thrilling is the roller coaster —
the moment it drops
genuinely turns your stomach upside down.




心脏不好的朋友
建议在下面看包
这真的也是一种参与
Friends with a weak heart:
better to watch the bags down below.
That, too, is a way of taking part.
但富国岛真正的主角
不在缆车上,而是在傍晚
But Phu Quoc’s real star
is not the cable car — it is the evening
这座岛的整条西海岸都朝西
这个地理细节
决定了它和许多东南亚海岛的不同
在这里几乎每天都能看海上日落
The whole west coast of this island faces west.
That geographical detail
is what sets it apart from many Southeast Asian islands:
here you can watch the sun set over the sea almost every day.


到了下午
沙滩就变成了另一个地方
秋千在风里轻轻晃
棕榈树的影子慢慢被拉得很长
By afternoon
the beach becomes another place.
The swing sways gently in the wind;
the shadows of the palms stretch slowly longer.


傍晚时分
云层被晚霞烧成橘红、玫瑰金
再褪成淡紫,一层一层铺开
At dusk
the clouds are burned by the afterglow into orange and rose gold,
then fade into pale violet, layer upon layer.
那一刻你会觉得
白天晒得发烫的所有疲惫
都是为这半小时预付的费用
And in that moment you feel
that all the exhaustion of a day scorched by the sun
was the price paid in advance for these thirty minutes.
留一个下午
什么都不做
Leave an afternoon
with nothing to do
最多报个名跟着船夫去海上看日落
或者干脆安静地躺着在海边
At most, sign up and follow a boatman out to watch the sunset from the sea —
or simply lie quietly by the shore.


这里很多海滩都不错
比如 Bãi Khem(凯姆海滩)
沙子细,浅滩长
浪看起来也平
Many of the beaches here are good.
Bãi Khem, for instance:
fine sand, a long shallow shelf,
and waves that look calm.


你可以坐一会儿、走一会儿
也可以发一会儿呆
长滩的躺椅更简单——
面朝西,把自己交给时间
You can sit for a while, walk for a while,
or stare into space for a while.
The loungers on Long Beach are simpler still —
facing west, you hand yourself over to time.


我在富国岛待了几天
去了不少地方
但回想起来
最清楚的画面只有两个
I spent a few days on Phu Quoc
and went to quite a few places.
But looking back,
only two images remain perfectly clear.


一个是缆车悬在翡翠海面上的那二十分钟
一个是什么都不安排
静静地看海上日落的那二十分钟
One is those twenty minutes suspended over the emerald sea;
the other is those twenty minutes with nothing arranged at all,
quietly watching the sun go down over the water.

其余的景点、行程、打卡清单
说到底都只是为那二十分钟做的铺垫
Everything else — the sights, the itinerary, the checklist of photo spots —
was, in the end, only groundwork for those twenty minutes.
如果你也去富国岛
我只有一句建议
别把行程排满
留一个傍晚,什么都不做
只守着落日余晖下的那片大海
那才是这座岛
真正想给你的东西
If you go to Phu Quoc too,
I have just one piece of advice:
do not fill every hour.
Leave one evening with nothing to do,
and keep watch over that sea under the last light.
That is what this island
really wants to give you.


(注:本文图片来自我的个人微信公众号“兵华小伙”,图片拍摄于2026年10月20日至24日)(Note: the photographs in this post come from my personal WeChat account “兵华小伙”; they were taken between 20 and 24 October 2026.)

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